Parasitic seeds and Politics.

Day 3 (sunday)
Strolled through Santa Cruz's Sunday market- dripping in the hot bolivian sun, met vendors selling 'parasitic seed' necklaces (bought one for 8 bs=1 dollar), wood carvings, leather, books, etc. This is not your run-of-the-mill Latin American tourist market. Nothing here feels touristy. We're really the only gringos here- no joke- and if there are tourists, they're from other bolivian towns or other South American countries. On the subject of other bolivians outside of Santa Cruz-- there is some very strong and real tension right now. The crucenos, or people from Santa Cruz, want autonomy (hence 'autonomia' signs posted on billboards, buildings, clothing, hats...) from the rest of Bolivia before Evo Morales takes the money away from the moneyed of santa cruz. In the Plaza Principal, buildings advertise enormous flags with the typical Santa Cruz colors declaring autonomy and death to Evo. People here don't say they're Bolivian- they're Cruceno. The 'Autonomistas' want autonomy, and the 'Massistas' are the indigenous who support Evo. The husband of our clinic nurse Ginda is autonomista living in a very poor, Massista town called Yapacani, and he's been threatened with the death of his two young children. Feels a bit dangerous here (but don't worry mom and dad- it's only dangerous if you're a political minority within your community, and they don't pay much attention to gringos in this debate)
And within Santa Cruz, there's a huge socioeconomic distinction between the Cambas (rich, Spanish descent, light-skinned) and Collos (indigenous, speak Quechua, Aymara, from the campo, or countryside). We became friends with a Bolivian family and went to their son's baptism last night and I was proposed to by a 44-year old named Freddy (more to come on that I promise!), and he complained that there's extreme racism here against him because he's dark-skinned, speaks Quechua, and is poor. Even his only light-skinned brother-in-law called him 'the african'. His next door neighbors, who live in equally impoverished (and I mean dirt poor) conditions, find it within themselves to give Freddy trouble b/c he's a Collo. Ironically, I asked Freddy his opinion on different religions like Islam and Judaism (since he was so upset by racism). He laughed and shrugged his shoulders and said the equivalent of 'there's nothing but Catholicism, nothing else matters'. I kept my mouth shut (which as most of you know-- marissa and breanne-- is hard for me), but I was in his home and dropped it. It's actually a fairly common question to be asked 'are you christian,' and while I hesitate for a moment to answer, I always say, 'no, I'm Jewish.' They look a bit confused, then drop the subject. More to come on the Baptism and fiesta with Freddy's family... but now back to chronological order.